How to Save Money Feeding Meat Rabbits
This quick and dirty guide will have all of the basics you need to know to get started with meat rabbits!
Not sure what some of the words mean? Check out this post that give you the definitions to all the rabbit lingo!
Why Raise Rabbits for meat?
Raising rabbits for meat is a great way to feed your family in an affordable manner. You can produce a lot of meat that is free of hormones and antibiotics, and become more self-sustaining even in a small space.
You can raise them almost anywhere. We live in a neighborhood with an HOA and a decent size yard. We are able to comfortably raise a breeding trio with room to spare in the 22 ft by 8 ft space behind our garage.
In fact, we could easily double our production in the space we have without feeling cramped.
Check out this post *coming soon* that goes more in-depth on how to set up your rabbitry for success even in a small, urban setting.
Children and Meat Rabbits
My oldest son is three years old and loves animals. We were nervous that he would get upset when the bunnies started suddenly disappearing. We decided to talk to him about our process from the beginning. He knows what a chicken is and he eats chicken. Why would a rabbit be any different?
It went extremely well. He plays with the rabbits and helps me care for them. He loves to take them up into his playset and sit with them in the shade.
Don't try to sneak the rabbit meat into your family's meals. That will breed distrust and we only want to breed rabbits here.
Be honest with them and get them involved. Kids love to feel needed and appreciated! Give them special tasks that they are responsible for to give them a sense of ownership. My son loves to help find pinecones to give the rabbits!
Meat Rabbits and Neighbors
Rabbits are quiet. Your neighbors will never know your rabbits exist as long as they can't see them.
Depending on your setup, they don't really smell either. We have already had many 90-degree F days here and the poop is virtually odorless unless you are right on it and even then it hasn't been a stinky situation for us.
If you use trays you may notice a smell since the urine and poop will be sitting together. A way around that is to clean the trays often and use bedding in the tray to absorb the urine.
Choosing a Meat Rabbit Breed
The trick to finding a good breed to raise for meat is to find one with a large body but a small-medium bone composition. You would think a Giant breed would be best but you will find that you won't get as much meat in a 5lb giant breed as you would in a 5lb standard breed.
You also want to consider your climate and their housing situation. We live in Texas and house our rabbits outside. We needed a breed that would tolerate the heat well, grow quickly and serve multiple purposes. What do you think we chose?
We went with a Standard Rex. They have extremely soft, luxurious fur which is perfect for pelts. Also, they typically have a sweet temperament and good mothering instincts. The trio we purchased also has larger litters that range from 8 to13 kids. They also tolerate the heat better than many other breeds.
Check out this post *coming soon* for more information to help you on your search for the best rabbit for your situation.
Buying Meat Rabbits
It is important to purchase from a local breeder whenever possible. The reason for that is the rabbits will already be used to the climate and there is a smaller chance of spreading any sickness. For example, Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease or RHDV2 is easily spread and can wipe out your entire rabbitry. If you buy from other areas you may be unknowingly spreading RHDV2 or other sicknesses.
That doesn't mean you can't purchase a rabbit that isn't local, but you should always be aware of possible risks. Check out this factsheet for information and RHDV2.
The Rabbitry Map is a great resource to find a breeder near you. If you are in the States, you can also check out the American Rabbit Breeder Association to find a local breeder.
Craigslist is also an option, but like with anywhere be sure to ask questions and be safe when meeting up.
Facebook does not allow the sale of animals on its platform. That being said, there are Facebook groups that will allow sale posts so be sure to look for those.
Rabbit Terminology
Check out this post with all the rabbit lingo you need to know to sound like a pro.
Housing Meat Rabbits
There are a few options when it comes to housing. You can raise them Colony style, in cages, hutches, rabbit tractors, or a combination.
I prefer all wire cages and here is why.
They are supremely easy to clean and last forever if made with quality material. Since the rabbits are not on the ground it is much easier to keep parasites and sickness at bay. You can keep your rabbits on a breeding schedule that works for you and it makes choosing a location to house them easier. They also allow for the most airflow which is important in our hot climate.
But definitely look into the options to find the best housing option for your family.
Check out KW Cages for great quality housing and accessory options. We use the modular wire rabbit cages due to their affordable price and our housing situation.
Feeding Meat Rabbits
When raising rabbits for meat you want to be as efficient as possible which is why I recommend feeding them pellets with 16-18% protein. This will allow them to grow quickly so they hit their goal weight sooner.
We buy Lonestar Rabbit Feed Performance Pellets from our local feed store. We chose this one due to the 18% protein and continue to use it because the rabbits grow very well on it and have been staying healthy. Click here for a breakdown of the feed. You can compare it to feed options in your area! It costs about $17 per 50-pound bag.
But what about feeding my rabbits treats?
You can definitely treat your rabbits! Just be sure to do it in moderation and check to make sure they can eat it before you feed them something new. Rabbits have very sensitive guts which makes it very important to introduce new foods slowly and watch for changes in their poop.
Check out this post *coming soon* for more snack treat options.
Rabbit Health
As I mentioned above, rabbits have sensitive guts. Watch what you feed them and pay attention to their poop. You can also add a small amount of Apple Cider Vinegar with the mother to their water to help keep them healthy. Check ears often for mites and offer free-choice hay.
Pro tip: ALWAYS quarantine new rabbit additions for at least 30 days before moving them in with your current rabbits. One sickness can wipe out your rabbitry. Better to be safe than sorry.
Rabbitry Records
Keeping good records is imperative! Important things to track include breeding dates, when to add nest boxes, when to wean and when to process. You can also track which doe was bred to which buck and how many kits per litter. Check out my Rabbitry Record Booklet *coming soon*.
Breeding Meat Rabbits
You will want your doe to be at least five months old before attempting to breed. Six to eight months is more common. The larger the breed the longer you want to wait. The goal is to make sure she is developed enough to handle a pregnancy and birth while also being mature enough to care for the kits.
When it is time to breed you will want to get the buck and move him to a neutral space. Then bring the doe to him. You can also put the doe in the bucks cage if you want. We have done it both ways and haven't had an issue either way.
Remember to always, ALWAYS put the doe in last! Whether you breed them in the bucks cage or put them in a neutral space. does are extremely territorial and will attack a back that ventures into her space. The last thing you want is a castrated buck.
Rabbits Pregnancy and Birth
Rabbit gestational period is fairly short, typically between 27 and 35 days, give or take. You want to make sure you give them a nest box a few days before they kindle so they have time to get the nest ready but not too early so they use it as a litter box. I add mine on day 27.
You can make the nest boxes out of spare wood or purchase them. I use metal nest boxes from KW Cages. They are easy to clean, have a removable bottom and are very durable.
You can also use plastic boxes you have around the house, as long as they fit in the cage and provide enough space for the doe to hop in and out without stepping on the kits.
You can put pine shavings in the bottom of the box and add hay or straw on top. The shavings will absorb the urine and keep the box fresher longer while the straw or hay will keep the kits comfortable.
I have also used paper from a paper shredder and that worked well as a bedding. Stay away from cedar shavings as is not advised and could pose a threat to your rabbit's health.
Care of Young Rabbits (Kits)
Everyone does this a little differently but I will share what I do! I handle the kits from day 1. I take each one out and check for abnormalities and full, milk bellies. My does are used to me and do not have a problem sharing their babies with me.
If you notice your doe is acting territorial then it could help to give your doe a treat on the other side of the cage before removing the kits or nest box. Being territorial is okay but they should never be aggressive. There are too many sweet does that will produce great litters to keep a mean and aggressive doe or buck!
Dispatching and Butchering Meat Rabbits
This is the hardest part for us due to its emotional nature of it. We chose to focus on how it will benefit our family and focus on giving the rabbits the best life we can until its last moment while utilizing as much of the rabbit as we can.
My husband felt much more comfortable after the third batch of grow outs. He is confident that he is able to end the life quickly and painlessly which was a huge concern for him as he does not want to cause our sweet rabbits to suffer. Practice makes confident!
Check out this video for all the ways to humanly dispatch a rabbit.
Cooking Meat Rabbits
Check out my Recipes to find simple and delicious rabbit meals!
The main thing is to cook low and slow to focus on keeping the meat moist and full of flavor.
Check out this video to learn how to cut up and quarter your processed rabbit.
Pelts and Parts
When breeding for meat you will typically process grow outs between 8-12 weeks of age. The pelts are difficult to tan before 16 weeks of age but that doesn't mean you can't use the pelts. They make great dog treats! Cut the pelt into strips, twist and dehydrate to make awesome treats your dog will love while supporting their coat and skin health. Win-win!
Some parts can be kept and eaten by you or your pets but be sure to check for sickness or parasites before consuming. Check out this post that talks about what to do with all of the extra rabbit bit!
You can also feed the pelt and parts raw just be sure not to feed the whole pelt at one time since it can cause blockages.
Rabbit Manure
Rabbit manure is literally brown gold. It is the best fertilizer for your garden and can be applied directly to the soil. Since it is a "cool manure" no aging is needed! Just make sure it is dry since urine can cause issues in your garden if not applied properly.
You can also fill up your empty feed bags with the poop and sell it locally. A good way to earn some feed money for your rabbits while getting it out of your yard! You would be surprised how many people will want to pay you for poop.
I hope I answered most of your big questions! Comment below if you have any other questions or thoughts about this post.
Source: https://spicybunrabbitat.com/how-to-get-started-with-meat-rabbits/
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